The Deckle Edge

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The Process  
This page demonstrates how my works are created. Since I have developed a number of new paper techniques, this page illustrates how I am applying various paper sculpture processes. If you have specific questions...Please contact me and I will do my best to assist you.  
If you try any of these techniques...please send me a photo of your work and I will post it on this web page... 
 
          New Projects...  
 Lantern armature
 
This armature stands three foot tall. Since the paper covering will be translucent, the frame is very important to the composition of the piece. It must look sculptural even without the paper. This lantern will be mounted from the ceiling and curve slightly to one side. A small tassel will be attached to the point to give it a Moraccan feel. The interlacing of the reed is both knotted and hot glued for strength. The paper will tighten around the reed when it dries and unless the armature is sturdy...the lantern will distort in shape. I could have brought the structure down in a perfect cone shape, but I find the cornicopia shape a more natural one. I finished the top with a broader piece of reed so all the paper can be lapped around at the top and have a finished look. Selection of the right paper will be critical to the success of this lantern.
 
 Lingbishi Base
This base has been sculpted with gutter guard and covered with two coats of celluclay. Another coat or two, some sanding, and felt on the feet and this base will be ready to paper. Usually the bases were magagony in color so I will use a reddish brown paper.
 
       
Lingbishi Stone - Gongshi
The second stone frame is taller than the first, has fewer holes and a more irregular shape. Here I am attempting to explore the different styles of spirit stones. This is a lingbishi stone design. The Celluclay adds structure, furrows and channels which are important to a spirit stone. The third and fourth coats continue to add detail and stone like structures. Once the celluclay is sanded it is ready for the addition of the suminagashi paper for color and uniqueness. Once the Suminagashi paper is added it give the furrows and stone details a vibrancy. The randomness of the color in the paper gives a naturalness to the stone even though it is green.
All that is left is the base, and that will be sculpted and papered in the same fashion as the stone itself (see above).
 
            Windswept Bonsai
 
This is the first phase of the sculpture where gutter guard, aluminum sculpture wire, and tape create the basic armature for the celluclay. The trunk, roots and tree details are added with the first coat of Celluclay. The colors are added with multicoat of colored paper. The finished piece is varnished with Polyacrylic and a piece of felt is glued to the bottom of the tree to prevent it from scratching the surface.
Materials required for this project include gutter guard, different gauge wires, masking tape, aluminum foil, Celluclay, colored papers and Polyacrylic varnish.
 
Sogetsu Ikebana Root
Dimensions 13.5”h x 4”w x 8”d 
    
The sogetsu Ikebana root is created on a sculpture wire armature covered with aluminum foil and masking tape for the built-up areas. The root is then covered with celluclay, sanded and shaped, and bronzed/hardened with Paverpol.
 
                                                                  Black Ying Stone - Gongshi - 'Spirit Stone'
Dimensions 22"h x 10"w x 4"d
 
The finished Gongshi is papered with black and gold Japanese Suminagashi marblized paper. The base is formed like the sculpture and papered with wood grain paper.
 The finished piece is coated with Polyacrylic to protect the surface of the paper.
     
This is the wire mesh frame of a gongshi. It was made of small segments of shaped gutter guard that are hot glued together. Holes are critical to the gongshi so channels and openings need to be included in the design.
The second photo shows the frame covered with the first coat of celluclay. The second coat allows for details, channels and more curves to be added. The third and fourth coats add surface detail and tighten the open areas so the impression of water erosion is more complete.
 Using the ancient characteristics of gongshi ...the beauty of the stone is defined:
Shou - thinness or elegance
Zhou - wrinkles - surface texture and furrows
Lou - channels pathways through the stone
Tou - holes and openness - allowing air and light to pass through
 
 Sogetsu Ikebana with pumpkin vine
    
                                                                                 Wire form and first coat             Second coat of Celluclay          Two tone crepe paper coating                         
  
The second Ikebana is a little smaller and less intricate.
With each new sculpture I am trying to simplify the design and yet fufill the requirements of a Sogetsu Ikebana.
There are three main components: 
Shin - Longest - represents heaven
Soe - Medium length - represents man/woman
Hikae - Shortest- represents earth
Plus, a triangular shape to the placement of the components.
The details show the bark-like details that have been added in the second and third coats of Celluclay.
Finally, the sculpture is covered with two shades of crepe paper and knot areas are papered multiple times.
Pumpkin flower
 
The flower for this Ikebana needs to be delicate and vine-like, so I selected a pumpkin flower. Initially I was going to illuminate the flower and built the flower on a light. But, I felt the flower needed to be more delicate so I built three flower bulbs from photos I found on the web. I sculpted them with aluminum foil and masking tape and attached them to a piece of plastic aquarium tubing and covered them with paper. Floral wire is used to create the curly vines and the ribbing on the bulbs.
 
 Sogetsu Ikebana
 Dimensions 27"h x 19"w x 11"d
   
The wooden Ikebana starts with the creation of the Gutterguard wire frame. Joint areas are strengthened with masking tape. The frame follows the theories of Ikebana where there is a high, middle and low point and the frame must triangulate at the bottom to carry the sculpture's weight.
The next step is to cover the frame with Celluclay and add the details of wood in the second coat (see below). Once the wooden frame is complete, then pink paper flowers will be added at the center of the sculpture. In this Ikebana, the simplicity of the wood becomes the focal point and the flower's brightness contrast with the starkness of the branches. Two colors of brown paper create the illusion of two intertwined branches (much like the colors of aged and young wood)
 
These photos shows the second coat of celluclay applied to the first. The second coat allows for more bark detail and knots to be added. You can see that the natural forms of the wood create an interesting sculpture already.
 
 
Papering of the sculpture is done with non-bleeding tan crepe tissue paper. (Crepe paper is more dificult to work with, but the wood effect is much better than using tissue.) It is applied in small pieces and where darker color is required, add multiple coats. Follow the branch in the direction of the grain over laying the paper to create a 'grain look.'  Knots are darker so apply at least four layers of paper.
 
   
The flowers are create with four layers of pink tissue sandwiching a piece of floral wire. The paper is then twisted on itself and glued as it is rolled. Form irregular petals with the floral wire. Five pieces of floral wire are add in the center. The third flower is rolled without wire to form a softer bud. The three flowers are wired together in the back and then coated with another layer of pink tissue to hide the wire.
 
 Blue dart frog
 Dimensions 9”h x 14”w x 10”d 
 
                                                               Photo by Jan M de Roode
Dick applies multiple coats of Paverpol and paper.
This sculpture is made on a wire frame, covered with Celluclay, and then finished with many coats of paper.
No paint was used on this sculpture.
 
 Paper Light Sculpture  - The Bald Eagle
Dimensions 37"h x28"w x10"d
 
As with most sculptures, the armature is the starting point. Here the wire frame is built in three pieces - the body, the head, and the branch. Since this sculpture will be wall mounted, the weight of the eagle will not have to be sustained by the branch. It can merely be attached with wire and dowels and concealed with "sculpt-it" shaped talons. The bulb socket is mounted at the top of the body and the wiring decends through the body and out the rear talon. The head is removeable to allow for access to the bulb that illuminates the head, which is colored with white and yellow paper.
 
     
Since the eagle head will be illuminated, the beak is not covered with 'Sculpt-it' but rather with yellow paper. The head is covered with white paper before the separate white feathers are applied. White floral wire is used to form the white feathers that ring the head.
 
 
  
The talons and legs are reenforced with dowels that are inserted into the branch. The dowels will provide stability and assure that the eagle is properly aligned to the branch. The dowels are drilled with a small hole to allow a wire to be inserted. The wire and dowels are glued in place and covered with Sculpt-it. Sculpt-it is also applied to the talons to provide details before they are covered with yellow and black paper. The protruding dowel and wire on the underside of the branch are covered with bark paper to obscure the attachment
 
The feathers are made of foral wire covered with Lakota burnt sienna paper and white soft Unyru from Thailand. They will be attached where distictive feather shapes are required.
 
Back    Front
The rest of the eagle is papered using a 'shingle' method where the edges of the 'paper' feathers are over-lapped.
 
 
The chicken wire frame branch is covered with newsprint and then bark detail is added with celluclay. Make the bark design simple and fairly deep, to create shadows and places to conceal the seams of the bark paper. Add a knot on top and some extentions to either end so the branch looks broken and weathered. Once dry, the branch is covered with Lokta wood veneer - nutmeg paper to achieve a realistic looking branch on which our eagle will perch. The branch must look strong enough to carry the size of the eagle. Also, having a curved and irregular branch adds more interest than just a straight 'stick like' branch.
 
Paper Light Sculpture  - The Raven
Dimensions 13"h x21"w x18"d
 

 

A lovely broken branch from New Hampshire provides the inspiration for this sculpture. The wire frame is sculpted from "Gutter Guard" and is wired together at the seams with floral wire. The bulb socket is inserted at this point and the wiring is brought down through the leg and will be drilled through the base and exit in the back of the branch. The head is designed to be removable in order to change the light bulb. The 'paper' feathers will conceal the seam. The branch has been brushed cleaned and two coats of Polyacrylic were applied.

 

       

The feet and legs have been wired to the branch and "Sculpt-it" has be applied to the wire frame to form the claws. Once dry, the feet are covered with brown paper. Likewise Sculpt-it has also be used on the beak to achieve a smooth, hard surface, then paper applied. Once the head is papered with black and blue, the orange paper rings are applied, then the raven eyes from Van Dykes Taxidermy are glued in place. A small white highlight dot is painted on each eye to bring the eyes to life.

The Raven head and body are covered with blue and black soft unyru paper from Thailand using a tearing a layering technique.

 

 

The feathers are the first to be applied. They are formed over lengths of floral wire and then trimmed and shaped. The color blue is used since black is applied over the blue to get the two tone effect of the blue/black raven.

This sculpture measures 24"w x 17"l  x 10"d.

 
     Blue Ring Octopus - (See Home page for lighted version)
              
This paper light sculpture is built on a wire "gutter guard" frame. Celluclay is applied to the tentacles since there will be no light passing throught the base. Details are added to the tentacles with "sculpt it".  The body is covered with soft white unyru from Thailand and then hardened with Paverpol.
Once the octopus is completely dry you can apply the arcrylic paint. By using mica powders you can increase the shine in certain areas. Once the paint is dry, then you coat the entire piece (twice) with polyacrylic, which provides sheen and protection for the paint. The final step is to spray the inside of the body with flame retardant just as a precaution. The piece is illuminate with a 6 watt replaceable bulb.
 
Looking for a simple project to make with kids?
How about a oramental paper covered bird...
    
Finished birds use feathers from a craft store and the paper covering is Japanese Suminagashi
 
  Follow these easy steps...
      
Create feet and loop with 20 gauge wire and needle nose pliers. Shape each toe by bending the wire back and forth. Next roll foil into a tight strip and wrap the wire.
     
Keep wrapping the wire with foil, tapping it with a hammer to make it more solid. Add small foil segments to form the beak and body until the bird is fully formed.
     
Using masking tape that you tear in half, cover the foil on the bird's body and feet. Find some feathers for the tail and the bird is now ready to decorate with paper.
A simple project for the kids at the Holidays, or any time.
 
  Japanese Koi Paper Light Sculpture 
    
Lace paper creates scale effect for the Asagi Koi            A 6 watt bulb provides an internal glow 
A complete instruction booklet has been prepared for the this workshop...if you are interested in getting one...write me a note.
 
L'Ail Rose de Lautrec - the famous pink garlic of the Midi-Pyrénées
This sculpture is constructed on a chicken wire armature. Multiple coats of un-inked newsprint paper were applied with clear wall paper paste. Once dry the sculpture is then coated with a hardener called 'Shell-shock' ( Thanks to Heather!). The hardener is then sanded and paper clay was added where needed. Six types of handmade commercial papers were used to create this garlic. The bud was covered in multiple coats of yellow, green and brown papers. A purple lace Thailand Unyru paper was applied to the body of the bulb and then covered in a thin ethereal white Unyru. The root base was formed with two types of raffia, natural and chocolate to give the effect of dried roots. The finished piece was coated with a paper hardener for strength and to extend longevity.
Dimensions: 20”w x 16”d x 24”h
 
                          A view of either side.
     
 
Pyrus communis 'Moonglow' – the Red Bartlett Pear

This sculpture is constructed on a chicken wire armature. Multiple coats of newsprint paper were applied with clear wall paper paste. Once dry the sculpture is then coated with handmade commercial papers. Six types of papers were used to create this pear. The stem was covered in multiple coats of brown, yellow and red papers. The paper was sculpted to give a wood grain effect. Green and red lace Unyru paper was applied to the body of the pear to give the appearance of small pear-like markings. The greens and yellows were coated with paper multiple times to give the depth and waxy look of the ripe pear.
The finished piece was coated with polyacrylic for shine and to extend longevity.
Dimensions: 24”w x 18”d x 33”h
 
       A view of either side.
    
 
Shell Light Sculpture  and Blue Ring Octopus
The shell mold is now complete so the papering can begin. Care has to be taken since the Unyru paper from Thailand has to be removed from the mold. A plastic wrapping of the mold will help with the removal of the paper.
 
   
                                                                                                                            This mold is 4 foot long.
   
 Heron Paper Light Sculpture  

      

This heron measures 5 foot tall and is illuminated. The round reed (2.75mm) is arranged in a pleasing structure knoted using an 'X' pattern and then covered with handmade paper. No paint was used, but the glass eyes are from a taxidermy company. The feet are sculpted in 'heavy duty' aluminum foil and masking tape and then covered with handmade paper. A soft Unyru paper from Thailand allows for a feathery look and the seams are easily consealed by multiple layers of paper. Feathers on the chest and back are achieved by using an exacto knife to differentiate the spaces between the paper. There were seven different papers used in the creation of this sculpture. Two 40 watt bulbs are used on the interior light pole. The interior is sprayed with flame retardant to assure safety.

 

  Oyster Light Sculpture

   

 

      

 

Oyster frame is a piece of wire mesh is folded and crimped. A hole is made for the night light bulb. Paverpol and white Viva towel (because it stronger and has no pattern) is appied to the inside top half of the shell. Tee shirt material is applied to both the top and bottom of the shell.      

The oyster base is 'Gutter Guard' and the pearl (night light) is mounted in the base. Sand is mixed with Paverpol to create the beach effect The oyster base is covered with Celluclay, once dry, two coats of Paverpol and Art Sand are applied and shells are glued to the hardened base. -  mother of pearl chips (from Christa Light) are added (see center photo below).

Smooth the bottom of the base (by wetting your hands) so the sculpture will lay flat and the felt can be easily attached for a smooth scratch-free surface. Barnacles are added to the top surface for fun... and to hide some of the seams in the tee shirt texture.

The oyster is painted with 'Pearl White', blue and plum acrylics. Interference blue power is applied while still tacky. The entire piece is final coated with transparent Paverpol to mute the paint and give a more shell-like sheen.

 

   

Materials required for the Oyster Light Sculpture:

 

 

Photos of the sculpture to be made - (Google Images a great source of images)

Paverpol - Transparent

One sheet of WireForm (or other) wire mesh - folded

Celluclay - small bag

Art sand - small bag

Tape - masking or duct

Paper clay for the barnacles

Wire needle nose plyers

Acrylic paints - blue, plum, pearl white,  and interference blue

Light fixture parts - 7 watt night light bulb

White viva towel and tee shirt material

Shells or mother of pearl inclusions

Felt for the bottom

 

       

 Canoe light sculpture to be covered with red paper.           Fish reed frame, became a Japanese globe eyed Goldfish.          

 

   Three Squash Paper Light Sculpture

        

 

      

The three paper squash are cast abaca paper from an acrylic mold made from an actual squash. The two halves are glued together and more orange paper is attached to conceal the seams. Green Thai paper is added for a realistic look. (No paint was used.) A small hole is then cut into the top to accept the light fixture. The paper leaves are constucted from two hand-made sheets of flax paper sandwiching a wire leaf frame that is then decorated with colored paper. The Henry Lauder's walking stick branches were given to me by Gail Edwards from her garden (Thanks, Gail). The electrical wiring wraps around the branches and is concealed by colored paper.  Brown gardening wire is used to help position the squash to the branches and support the branches so they won't shift. Finally, a dimmer switch is added so the 6 watt lights can be regulated and the whole piece is varnished to protect everything. This sculpture was donated to the Children Diabetic Society in Baltimore.

 

   Zuni bear fetish  - 'Healing Spirit' and symbol of - West

         

 

        

   

The Zuni bear fetish is made of handmade paper as is the Zuni symbol and the "leather" frame to which it is inset. Styrofoam is used to create the sculpted shape and handmade paper is attached in layers to create the various effects. Only the 'heart-line', eye, beads and shell are painted.

  

Lynn Sures was very helpful in demonstrating how to get the pigmentation just right to achieve the travertine marble effect on the white cotton paper bear. Also, on the bear's back notice the three 'veins' of kozo positioned in the mold before the pulp was added, plus the addition of straw created interesting scoring marks on the pulp. After painting the 'heartline' (symbol of 'life force') turquoise and coating the paper with mat medium for some shine, it takes on the characteristics of polished stone. Beads for the medicine bundle were sculpted from paper clay and painted. Then on to the background symbol which is a sculpted foam circle (1" x 12")  on which the bear will be centered. The foam is covered with four handmade papers with the traditional Zuni colors of turquoise, coral, white and black. Insertions in the white paper provide the effect  of marble. All the seams are neatly covered by the black inset pieces.

 

The medicine bundle is becoming much deeper than expected and the feathers will prevent a shadow box frame. Natural feathers and a cylindrical cone shaped shell will add interest to the top of the bear. It is usually tied on the bear's back with cord that laces between the bear's legs. The bear's healing powers are invoked during the owner's 'life's transitional times' and the 'medicine bundle' provides healing powers to the owner.

The background frame is sculpted styrofoam covered with multi-layers of hademade paper to create a stylized leather bear skin. The Zuni symbol is inset for a completed piece.

 

   Fish Paper Light Sculpture  - In the style of Frank Gehry

    

 

      

Chicken wire is sculpted like a fish body and then dipped into Abaca pulp. The coral base conceals the light fixture and is made of 'Gutter Guard' and will be covered with 'Celluclay' and hardened with Paverpol. The coral branches (floral wire)are covered in paper clay and are painted coral red to simulate actual 'soft red coral' (with white tips). 

 

The fish body is covered with a suminigashi (marblized paper) positioned to take best advantage of the gold swirl in the paper. The chicken wire allows light to penetrate only in the 'non-papered' area, creating interesting shadows. The contrast between the blue/green/gold paper and the red coral is striking. The dimmer switch allows the 40 watt bulb to be adjusted for best effect.

 

   Yet another ...calla lily blossom

    

  This was an experiment to see how the Abaca would adhere to the hardware cloth. I dipped it from the back so the front would remain smooth. I applied a white soft Unyru paper from Thailand to the blossom and a yellow paper to the pistol. A small 6 watt bulb is attached to a small socket at the base so it will glow through the yellow pistol. A hook at the back allows for a wall mounting so it can be used as a sconce.

 

   Cast Cabbage Leaves

    

 

This cabbage leaf sculpture is actually cast directly from cabbage leaves. The real cabbage leaf is positioned on a balloon so it will keep its curve. Then white paper is applied in multiple layers on the leaf. A diluted solution of Paverpol is applied to each layer of paper (about four or five layers). Once the leaves are dry, a thin layer of acrylic wash paint is applied to the inside only. The veins of the leaf are not painted so it lets more light through. Then a coat of mat finish varnish is coated on each leaf. These leaves are mounted on a lamp base with a forty watt bulb so the painted side glows from the inside, while the outside of the sculpture remains white when not lighted. 

 

    Abstract Paper Light Sculpture

       

The light sculpture is my first abstract using Paverpol. The wirebase is covered with paper and sculpted to look like a piece of driftwood, and is lighted for dramatic effect.

 

    Calla lily

   

         

 

         

 

Now that I know that I can sculpt a shape and have the paper harden to that shape (by using Papverpol), I have created a five foot wire mesh frame of a Calla lily. After the wire mesh is sculpted, it is then covered in 'uninked' newprint with wallpaper paste. Then sections of the mold are 'shrinked wrapped' in plastic since Paverpol will not stick to plastic. A hair dryed is used to tighten the (basket wrapping) plastic. Then the colored paper and Paverpol is applied in multiple layers. Once dry, the paper is slipped off the mold and the plastic removed. You can see in the photos above I have created both the pistol and the stem. The hummingbird will be attached to the flower once everything is completely assembled. Paper clay was used for the bird body and colored paper will be applied for color and detail.

 

Please return soon to see how the entire flower will be assembled.

 

   Painting Mandarin characters with pulp

         

 

The Mandarin calligraphic symbols are stylized from ancient Mandarin master calligraphers or chinese engravings. They are not painted, as in traditional calligraphy, but are actually formed in pulp and incorporated into a single piece of abaca paper. The symbol is drawn in reverse on a piece of pellon (felt like material). Red pulp paper is then formed on the pellon. The pulp is then transposed on to the wet white abaca paper, and when pressed, becomes part of the paper itself. The deckle edge ( a slighly ragged edge) is formed by the 'deckle' in the paper making process.

 

    Paper Castings

          

 

The Mayan glyph is taken from the Temple of inscriptions in Palenque - Chiapas, Mexico. The ancient Mayan ruler - Pakal (615 - 683 AD) is buried in the temple and the glyphs tell of his exploits. The glyph is created using a plaster mold, and the paper is cast in the mold.

 

The mold is created first by carving the glyph in clay then taking a plaster mold of the carving. Once the reverse image is cleaned, the paper is pigmented and cast in the mold. Green pigment was use to mimic the stucco on the temple walls. Red or cinnabar was also used in the Mayan culture.

 

    Paper Sculpting with foam

                     

     

 

Other pieces are create using foam sculptures on which the paper is cast. The foam (simply home insulation foam) is glued together to acheive the desired thinkness (make sure you use foam glue like 'foamtastic' as other glues breakdown the foam) and sculpted with a hot wire and a rasp. Once the foam is sanded smooth with fine sand paper, muslin cloth is attached to the foam to allow the paper to be removed when dry. The paper is pigmented and applied. Once the paper is dry, it is coated with many applications of Paverpol to harden the paper.

 

    Lion Fish Paper Light Sculpture

                      

       

 

The Lion Fish lamp starts with a 'Google images' search of photos of a Lion fish and coral. Then a rough sketch provides the basic dimensions for the sculpture. Next, a wire form is created from aluminum wire mesh (gutter guard). The pieces of wire mesh are 'stiched' together using a small gauge floral wire. The basic shape is now ready for paper to be applied. Once the base coat of paper is dry, detail shaping is sculpted with 'paper clay.' The fins are sketched and wire frames are made of straight stem floral wire.  Colored paper is then applied to the fin frame, which is coated with matte medium before attaching to the fish body. The electrical is built into a coral wire base that is sculpted and covered with paper mache and painted. The final coloring is accomplished by applying colored paper to integrate all the seperate components. The interal area of the fish is sprayed with a flame retardant. ('Turning Star' Inc.  makes a clear, oderless flame retardant spray specifically for paper.) Once complete, the sculpture is coated with multiple coats of 'matte' medium for strength and durability. Finally a long life, low wattage (7w) cool floresent bulb is used to illuminate the lamp and limit the possibility of overheating. (These bulbs are expensive but are worth the peace of mind.)

 

    Hermit Crab Light Sculpture  (First sculpture using cotton fabric and 'Paverpol' from the Netherlands)

   

           

 

            

 

            

 

The Hermit Crab again starts with a couple of photos to provide scale and color scheme. The shell is wire mesh and the crab itself is constructed of 'paper clay'. The base is celluclay with an electric socket for a 7 watt night light. This night light will illuminate the paper shell and give a glow around the crab itself. The claws are painted, in this case, to allow for a stiple effect, rather than a single color. The claws are attached to the wire mesh shell with the internal appature wire of each claw. The attachment points are reenforced with a rim of paper clay for support and to lock the claws in place. Once the shell is covered in paper all of the attachment wires will be totally concealed. This will give the impression of the crab emerging from the shell rather than being attached to it. The finished shell is decorated with colored paper to allow for transparency. Then the shell is covered with marblized fabric soaked in 'Paverpol'. Once the hardener dries, then a gloss varnish (since shells are shiny) can be applied for durability. The interior is then sprayed with a flame redardant for safety. The base is painted a sand color and shells are glued in place. Felt is applied to the bottom to prevent scratching and provide a more finshed presentation.


    Paper Sculpting of a Cherry Blossom

     Here are images to help explain how a cherry blossom is constructed out of paper.
 
        
Each leaf is formed with wire and colored tissue paper is glued to the wire using wallpaper paste. Multiple coats are required to build up the various colors and textures. Individual stems, leaves, and branches are likewise constructed with wire and colored paper. Once completed, the entire piece is assembled and varnished. 



    
Casting a Goldfish Light Sculpture

 


 

 

Here are some images of the paper casting process.

 

Once a rough sketch is made to establish size and basic configuration, the foam body is cut from insulation foam. A basic shape is cut with a hot wire tool then glued to similar pieces to achieve the desired thinkness. The foam is then formed and sanded into a mold to which the paper can be applied. A piece of muslin cloth is attached before the paper pulp is  applied to coat the mold. Once dry, the cloth is pulled off and the paper is then coated with mat medium to harden the cast. The molded paper can be then mounted around a light fixture. Once the fins are added, additional colored paper is applied for highlights. And finally, paper seaweed to added to cover the base. The finished lamp is varnished for strength and durability.

 

          

  

         

 

      Paper Casting of embossed characters


 Here are some images explaining how characters are carved in foam and embossed in paper then painted. 

 

    

 

Here are some images of how characters are carved in clay then a latex mold is made with "Mold Builder" (Castin' Craft) and once embossed in the paper is painted with acrylic paint.